Erawan Shrine: Bangkok's Never-Ending Incense

2015-07-19 · Updated: 2026-08-11 · Original (Korean)

This article was translated from the original Korean post with AI assistance. Read the original Korean post →

Feeling like I had run out of things to see in Bangkok, I headed out to Siam Center to do some shopping.

I went to the Hard Rock Cafe, grabbed a coffee at a cafe, and even ate som tam (papaya salad) by myself, but I don't feel the need to document those memories. I was especially bummed out because the som tam wasn't what I had expected.

The illuminated Amarin Plaza building and cars on the road at night — While wandering around Siam like that, I decided to visit the Erawan Shrine mentioned in my guidebook.

A night street scene in Bangkok showing the signs for the InterContinental Hotel and Holiday Inn

People gathered around the illuminated Erawan Shrine at night — Unusually, the shrine was nestled right between luxury hotels, and the smell of incense was so thick I worried if the hotel guests could even sleep.

An information board with an explanation of Tao Maha Brahma written in Thai and English — Its actual name is 'Thao Maha Brahma'. It's a Hindu deity, not a Buddhist one. It's fascinating how the two religions seem to share each other's gods and philosophies.

People kneeling and praying in front of a golden shrine — I heard this shrine is especially popular among Chinese tourists.

A golden Buddha statue enshrined inside an ornately decorated shrine

A four-faced golden Buddha statue enshrined inside the shrine

This Brahma god is associated with safety. The Erawan Shrine is said to be even more popular because of the backstory intertwined with it. When the Grand Hyatt hotel right behind the shrine was being built, many people died, and workers were reluctant to work there, claiming the site was haunted. While trying to figure out what to do, a Navy Rear Admiral at the time supposedly consulted a fortune teller (wait, what?) and erected the Brahma statue. Since no more accidents happened after that, everyone believes Brahma protects them. A few years ago, a Muslim man reportedly vandalized the statue and was beaten to death by bystanders. (The vandalism is scary, but being beaten to death is even scarier.) After the incident, Thai society became unstable, and the Prime Minister even lost power. Believe it or not, it's a place so beloved by the people that the incense never stops burning.

It's a small space, but they put on performances like this, and there's surprisingly a lot to see.

#IFilmedTheDancingButMyDamnHardDriveBlewItAway