slothis · English

Battling 20kg Luggage in Irkutsk, Russia

2016-05-25 · Updated: 2026-08-11 · Original (Korean)

This article was translated from the original Korean post with AI assistance. Read the original Korean post →
Two fried eggs with bacon and dill on a white plate.
Our last meal at Lake Baikal

Leaving behind Lake Baikal, which gifted me with the most magnificent sights I've ever seen over the past three nights and four days, I hopped on a bus to Irkutsk. While waiting at the stop, I looked out at the lake and prayed again that I would never forget this scene. I don't know when I'll be able to return, but I prayed that the days spent by this clear, deep lake would give me strength in life. Just as I was soothing my lingering regrets, the bus arrived. The fact that it had "Istana" written on the back and was the size of a small shuttle van must just be an illusion caused by our capitalist-stained minds, even after seeing the pristine lake.

A blue lake and horizon seen through a white decorative iron grate.
The bus stop looks pretty in photos, but it reeks of urine.
A small observatory building with a red roof connected by a steel bridge over a blue lake.
Goodbye, Baikal
Two people looking at the water next to a bus stop on a lakeside road.
No matter where you go in the world, the guy is always the girl's personal photographer.

On the way, a friendly-looking older man sitting next to Seungjun strikes up a conversation with him. He got caught again. This time, it seems to be a Jehovah's Witness, opening some book and trying to proselytize to him. Over the four days of our trip, the only people who have smiled at him are taxi drivers, tour touts, cult recruiters, and Jehovah's Witnesses. How on earth do Russian people see him? Does he literally have a glowing "easy target" halo behind him that only they can see? My trips are already a sitcom when I'm alone, but with him around, the future is completely unpredictable.

The backs of passengers sitting in the front seats inside a van covered with quilt decorations.
Seungjun meeting a Jehovah's Witness on a bus heading to Irkutsk, deep in the Russian countryside.

According to our original plan, we were supposed to walk to the Znamensky Monastery in Irkutsk, but the bundles of luggage strapped to my back and chest—weighing as much as an elementary schooler—simply wouldn't allow it. After the bus driver told us to get off in Irkutsk, we walked around for about 30 minutes just trying to figure out our current location and which direction to head. After that, we spent an hour walking around looking for a decent restaurant for lunch. Because of my heavy bags, I had to walk slowly and take a 10-minute break for every 30 minutes of walking, but Seungjun's pace was fast, maybe because his luggage was lighter. No, wait. Come to think of it, he just has incredibly good stamina. He runs regularly and doesn't even have a belly; I made the mistake of holding him to my own physical standards.

Colorful artificial flowers displayed on the street and a person walking past them.

After walking non-stop for about an hour, I'm completely drenched in sweat under my front and back bags. My shoulders feel like they're going to cave in, and my knees feel stiff. The sky looks yellow—either it's actually hazy, or I'm just losing my mind. We all know how difficult and important it is to walk at a pace that suits our own burdens while matching the rhythm of the people walking beside us in society. Yet, how many people demand their own speed from others, criticizing and ignoring them if they fall behind? And how often have we lived exhaustingly, matching others' expectations without daring to ask them to slow down for fear of lagging behind? Everyone has their own pace and stamina, but people judge everything based on their own standards. And then they claim teamwork is the most important thing. I'm doing a lot of thinking and reflecting as I walk today.

A city intersection featuring an old red building and a parked minibus.
Arriving in Irkutsk
A person carrying a large backpack walking along a road lined with old wooden houses.
I wanted to yell "Stop right there!" but we had a long way to go, so I couldn't.

My back is killing me. I just want to lie down on the train as soon as possible.


Expenses (Per Person)

Total Expenses 7,460R

Total Trip Expenses 525,936 KRW + 11,956R + $53.16