Chersky Peak in Listvyanka: A New View of Lake Baikal
After doing the Baikal boat tour yesterday, I'm really unhappy with our cramped room right now. When I open the window, the picturesque Lake Baikal should be spread out before me, but since we got the cheapest "Mountain View" room, all I see is a desolate, non-operational snow sledding slope. Eventually, deciding I couldn't miss out on something this good, I went down to reception to start negotiating.
The hotel here is cheap and the facilities are all old, but the reception staff speak English well even though there are only three of them and try to resolve any complaints however they can. Back home in Korea, if you go to a small regional hotel like this, there are a lot of staff who might speak a little English but express their annoyance with their whole body. I haven't seen anyone like that in Russia yet. My sample size is small, but if someone could just find the cause of this difference, I feel like there would be a massive innovation in the service industry.
Fortunately, they understood almost all of my older brother's English. After looking into the situation for about two hours, they delivered the great news that they would move us for an extra 100 RUB. Of course, in the meantime, I double-checked several things just in case they changed their minds, but that only complicated things. Looking at the new room, it seems like I'll be able to comfortably shoot the sunrise or sunset I wanted right from the room while charging my camera. To celebrate this great turn of events, we decided not to head to Listvyanka today and instead have a celebratory lunch at the hotel.
Looking at the menu, the prices are generally satisfying. Roughly deducing the letters, it looked like three omul (local Baikal fish) were 250 RUB, and the other dishes weren't much different from eating outside. I wanted to eat omul again, so when ordering, the name always makes me feel like I'm asking for a dirty fish soaked in petroleum I ordered the cheapest 250 RUB omul on the menu. And maybe 30 minutes later, the food finally arrived.
We ate well, and just as we were about to head up to the observatory! Wait, what?! The billed amount was over 1,000 RUB.
'Are these punks trying to scam a customer sitting right in front of them?'
Sensing a scam, I grabbed the menu and marched over with a look that said I was going to kill them, but before I could even finish speaking, the waiter pointed to the number next to the rubles and said,
"Grams!"
I couldn't believe it... It was 250 RUB per 100 grams. I got completely played. I didn't get played, I was just functionally illiterate. Thinking once again about why people need to be able to read, and even though reading comprehension in Korea is still lacking the holy achievements of King Sejong (creator of the Korean alphabet) who made it so almost all his people could read, I handed over my card. In the end, the dish I ordered thinking it was the cheapest turned out to be the most expensive omul dish in the house. Who knew our celebration party would end as cold as ice like this.
It can't be helped. I spent a lot of money on food out of excitement when we arrived in Russia over the last couple of days, but if I keep spending at this rate today, I'll go bankrupt before the trip even really begins. Today, I'm going to hold out by not spending anything on the lift ticket to Chersky Peak or on dinner. I already walked 4km carrying 20kg, so hiking up a mountain out back with just my body will be a breeze. For dinner, I can just eat the ramen and military rations I packed.
After finishing that shocking meal and resting in the lobby to recover my departed soul, we set off for Chersky Peak, where you can supposedly see Lake Baikal and the Angara River at a glance. From a distance, it looks more like a ski resort than an observatory. Honestly, I'm not even sure if this is actually Chersky Peak. The path to the top of the mountain is well-maintained, and with picturesque Baikal visible just by turning your head, it's the most impressive walking trail I've ever been on. After hiking up for about an hour, we arrived at the observatory. The lake seen from the peak has a different kind of beauty than seeing it directly from the water. The grandeur is a given, but the way the sunlight reflects off it is absolutely perfect. On top of that, you can also see the Angara River—the only river that flows out of Lake Baikal—which creates an even more mystical atmosphere.
To get to the observatory here, you can either take the lift or walk up the trail. I recommend taking the lift up and walking down. If you take the lift, your back is to the lake, so you don't get to see this view on the way up. And the ride down is way too short. Since the hike up is tough, it's perfect to use the lift it's 200 RUB and walk on the way down. I think they give you a discount if you buy a one-way ticket. Most tourists were doing it this way, and even the dogs travel like this.
Expenses (per person)
- Water, beer, detergent 154 RUB
- The problematic lunch 578 RUB
Total 732 RUB
Total Trip Expenses 525,936 KRW + 4,496 RUB + $53.16 USD