Marushim in Seoul: Nagoya-Style Hitsumabushi (Eel Rice Bowl)
If I had to pick my most memorable meal from my trip to Nagoya, Japan, it would undoubtedly be the 'hitsumabushi' (grilled eel over rice) at Atsuta Houraiken. The memory of deconstructing the eel and eating it in three different ways—first just the golden-grilled eel over sweet rice, then mixed with wasabi and some vegetables, and finally with a little seaweed in a broth brewed from eel bones—is still the absolute best. Wondering if I could try hitsumabushi like that in Seoul, I did a quick search and found 'Marushim'.
Actually, this wasn't my first visit this year; I've been a regular here for about seven years now. Since their main ingredient is eel, which is famous for boosting stamina, we usually visit whenever someone in the family is sick or feeling drained. Right now, one of my family members is running on empty, so we paid a visit after a while to help them recover their energy.
As I mentioned earlier, and as written on the menu above, there are three ways to eat hitsumabushi. My family members all have their own preferred methods now, so we usually just stick to one style from the start. However, if it's your first time or if you value variety, I highly recommend trying all three methods.
- First, divide the eel and rice into four equal portions.
- Scoop one portion into an empty bowl and eat it exactly as it is.
- Put the second portion into the bowl and mix it with perilla leaves, green onions, and wasabi. Personally, I recommend mixing in only half of the provided garnishes.
- For the third portion, put it in the bowl, pour in plenty of broth, add some seaweed, and eat it like a soup.
- Enjoy the final portion using whichever of the three methods you liked best.
The portions are quite generous. If you're known for having a small appetite, go for the 'Mini'. Average adults should be fine with the 'Sang' (Regular), and big eaters can opt for the 'Teuk' (Special/Large).
As you'll notice when you taste it, the defining characteristic here is that the fat is completely rendered out, unlike the eel we typically eat. Compared to the grilled eel at places advertising 'Pungcheon Eel' (a Korean regional style), it's much less greasy and incredibly sweet thanks to the sauce and the rice. Personally, I love eating it with the vegetables. The crunchiness of the finely chopped veggies combined with the fresh wasabi perfectly cuts through any richness of the eel, creating a fantastic balance. I've never tried the unadon (standard eel bowl), so I'll skip reviewing that.
If I were to compare it to Atsuta Houraiken in Nagoya, I think I noticed a distinct difference in the eel broth you pour over the rice. However, it's hard to definitively say the one in Nagoya was better, given the special magic of traveling and the fact that it was my first time tasting the dish. Let's just say they are both incredibly delicious.
As a bonus, here is the set menu.
