Mapo Sogeum-gui in Hapjeong: 20-Year-Old Retro BBQ
An acquaintance was looking to get a custom bike, so I wandered around the Hapjeong area (in Seoul) with them to check things out. After visiting a couple of shops, it was already evening. I was about to pull out my phone to find a place to eat before parting ways, when a really striking, old-school restaurant caught my eye right then and there.
The fact that the menu only had two items—sogeum-gui (salt-grilled pork) and ggeobdegi (pork rind)—reminded me of Podaepo near Seoul Station. For such an old place, the prices were a bit high, but considering how much land values in Hapjeong have skyrocketed, it made sense. Expecting the prices to be from 20 years ago would be asking too much. It's better to think of it as paying for the history and atmosphere of a place that has survived for over two decades in a rapidly changing Seoul. If this were in Gangnam, it probably would have been even more expensive. We ordered a set that came with a free bottle of soju. Looking around, the place looked like it could barely fit 20 people even if it were packed. Reservations are definitely out of the question.
The meat comes out pre-grilled, so it takes a little while. After a long wait, we finally dug into the pork and rinds, and they were way better than expected. Meat is always good, of course, but there was absolutely none of that unpleasant, gamey smell you sometimes get when you're unlucky. The meat is delicious, but the true flavor of this place comes from its old-school vibe paired with the retro feel of a Jinro Is Back soju bottle.
The first photo in this post was taken as we were leaving after our meal. The couple in front were waiting in line, and even while we were eating, people kept pouring in until it was fully packed in an instant. The only downsides are that service is a bit slow since it's just the owner couple running the place, and grabbing a table won't be easy. It might not be a historic institution, but if you want to experience that nostalgic, 1994-era retro vibe, I highly recommend it.