Yongi Sikdang in Jungmun: Mild Jeju Pork Duruchigi
I ended up going to Jeju Island because an acquaintance suddenly invited me. I had been feeling frustrated watching them go through a tough time, so when they called, I headed down right away.
After spending the first day in Hamdeok (a beach town in Jeju), we moved to Jungmun on the second day. By the time we arrived, it was right around lunchtime. However, almost all the shops in Jeju close on Sundays. The place we originally planned to go was closed, and a quick look around showed that most other restaurants were shut too. We wondered if we should drive further out, but thankfully, we heard that the Jungmun branch of Yongi Sikdang—famous in Seogwipo for its duruchigi (stir-fried pork)—was open, so we headed there.
The older brother I went with mentioned that the main branch is in Seogwipo and is quite famous there. Hearing that it was a branch of a well-known restaurant definitely raised my expectations.
After walking in and doing the COVID-19 check-in, we were guided to our seats, and they started preparing our food right away without even asking. The only item on the menu is duruchigi, and since you order per person, confirming the number of people in your party is basically placing your order. There isn't much to say about the interior; it's just a simple space with a self-serve station where you can grab more of the initial side dishes. Just one menu item and a minimalist interior—my anticipation for a delicious meal was steadily growing.
A pan filled with meat was brought out, along with vegetables to stir-fry into it. The staff cooks everything for you, so you don't have to worry about when to add the ingredients. In Seoul, the meat is often partially cooked beforehand to save time, but here in Jeju, you get to watch the cooking process from the very beginning. It takes a bit longer to cook, but it gives you time to sit and chat, so there are pros and cons.
I tried the cold soup that came with the meal, and it was quite unique. It had the usual refreshing taste, but they had mixed in doenjang (soybean paste), leaving a savory, earthy finish. The staff member grilling our meat explained that this is how cold soup is traditionally made in Jeju. Doenjang in the duruchigi and in the cold soup too! I usually just eat raw fish when I visit Jeju, so I didn't know, but it seems like a regional characteristic of Jeju cuisine is making good use of soybean paste.
Once the duruchigi was fully cooked, I took a bite. A soybean paste-based duruchigi instead of the usual gochujang (red chili paste) base—I was excited. The soybean paste they use here isn't as strong as what you'd find in Seoul; it has a much milder flavor and aroma. Even the color is lighter, making it look very easy on the stomach. Taking a chopstick-full, the subtle taste of the soybean paste perfectly complemented the firm, bouncy texture of the meat and the crisp bean sprouts. If it had a strong, spicy flavor, I would have craved soju, but the overall taste was as gentle as walking on a dirt path. With all the vegetables mixed in, it made me think of makgeolli (rice wine) or beer instead. It's a mild flavor that even young children could easily eat, making it a great spot for families to visit.
We ate our rice and meat wrapped in lettuce leaves, but I noticed the table next to us mixing their rice in at the end to make fried rice. They had the vibe of local residents, and it was a bit of a bummer—if we had seen them a little earlier, we probably would have eaten it that way too.
Not only is the taste great, but the portions are generous too. And all for just 8,000 KRW. I had heard that prices in Jungmun are quite high, but compared to that, this place is incredibly cheap. In Seoul, this would have been at least 12,000 KRW, but here it's only 8,000 KRW. Even for a family of four, there's absolutely no burden when it comes to taste, portion size, or price. This branch is so satisfying that I didn't even find myself wondering if the main location would be better.