11 Coffee in Hoi An: A Quiet Cafe with a Retriever
Most morning scenes are full of life, but mornings in a tourist town are even more vibrant. It's a very meaningful time when tourists, determined to properly explore the neighborhood, and merchants, trying to stop them even for a moment to sell their goods, both start their warm-ups. We also decided to warm up with some coffee before properly looking around Hoi An. Just like splashing a little water on yourself before jumping into a cold pool, we decided to have coffee before diving into Hoi An.
As expected when leaving the hotel, touts from various coffee shops and restaurants looked at us and tossed the words 'massage, coffee, banh mi' into our ears. But what we wanted was a confident coffee shop that didn't resort to touting. The tourist town's warm-up had begun, throwing light jabs to set up a weak but firm punch.





While walking along the water and casually checking out shops to see which one would be good, I felt certain about this place when we stopped in front of 11 Coffee (11 Cà phê). There was no one out front, as if telling passersby to quietly walk on by, and inside, there were Vietnamese locals typing away on laptops, engrossed in something. The rather young-looking barista brewed coffee without showing a smile, much like a Russian. It was as if he was saying, 'If there's no chicness, there's no flavor in the coffee.' The shop's mascot, a retriever, was lying on the floor sleeping so deeply it wouldn't even notice if someone carried it away, completing 11 Coffee's unique atmosphere.






I visited 11 Coffee twice during the trip. On the first day, I drank an espresso to wake myself up, and on the second day, since I was in Vietnam, I felt it was only polite to drink Vietnamese coffee (a rule of politeness I made up myself), so I ordered an iced Cà phê đen (black coffee). As you might know from my other posts, there are two types of coffee in my life: bitter coffee and sour coffee. This place has bitter coffee. I'm not sure if all Vietnamese coffee is like this, but the bitter taste is strong, making it great for sipping slowly. A unique point is that when you order iced coffee, they serve the ice and coffee separately, which I thought was a really brilliant idea. You don't have to worry about the coffee getting watered down; you can just pour the right amount over the ice to make it cold and take a sip, or conversely, drop a single ice cube into the coffee to adjust the temperature. I was highly impressed and wondering why they don't do this in Korea or other places, but after thinking about it for a moment, I realized there is a very strong disadvantage: it doubles the dishwashing. Even if it means washing twice as many dishes, wouldn't it be nice to serve them separately? I wonder what the national part-time workers' union would say about that...



