Dongbok Haenyeochon: Top Raw Fish Noodles in Jeju
Today is the day I head over to Jeju City. It felt like a bit of a shame to just go straight there, so I took a detour along the way to grab something to eat.
This is Chonchon Haenyeochon, a restaurant that proudly declares on its sign that they invented hoe-guksu (spicy raw fish noodles). I don't know if that's actually true, but if you ask people what to eat in Jeju, half of them will recommend the raw fish noodles at this place. It used to be called Dongbok Haenyeochon, but it seems they built a bigger building next door and changed the name. I'm not sure if that's a fact, but the restaurant is spacious and has plenty of parking spots, making it an easy place to visit.
The restaurant is bright thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the ocean. Naturally, it's a great way to pass the time looking out at the sea while waiting for the food to come out. It's a somewhat plain ocean view, but it's definitely enough to enjoy at a leisurely pace. If there weren't many customers, you could really zone out and relax, but it's always packed here, so that's pretty tough to do.
The noodles came out not long after I ordered. It looks like a huge portion, but it's really just a simple combination of raw fish, vegetables, noodles, and sauce. And even though it looks like a lot, it somehow feels like it wasn't quite enough once you finish eating. I guess you could call it a bit of a bluff.
Once you mix it all up so the sauce coats everything perfectly and take a bite, you instantly understand why everyone tells you to come eat here. The dark sauce looks like it would be spicy, but it actually has a hint of sweetness, and the noodles are so delightfully bouncy. I could easily eat a whole bowl of just the noodles and sauce, even without the raw fish. But when you eat it together with the fish and vegetables, an even more incredible flavor hits you. Chewing on the firm raw fish and crisp veggies, followed by those chewy noodles—you completely stop caring whether there's an ocean outside or not.
Maybe because I came alone and was eating so frantically, I only really noticed the scenery after I was done. If only it were less crowded, this is a place where I'd love to eat slowly without worrying about taking up space. The view feels a bit familiar, as if I've been here before, though I have no idea when that would have been. The taste also gives me the feeling that I've eaten something similar in the past.
The space itself isn't particularly amazing; it's just clean. It's simply a place where you can see the ocean and enjoy a neat meal. I don't know if the name "Haenyeochon" (female diver village) means the local residents actually teamed up to run the business, or if a single owner just borrowed the name, but either way, they must have made enough money to put up a whole building. It's incredibly crowded and noisy, but the food is just so good that I genuinely recommend this spot when you're in Jeju.