Eulmildae Mapo: Historic Seoul Pyongyang Naengmyeon
I had a really hard time falling asleep last night, gulping down my cravings while watching Baek Jong-won's 'Naengmyeon Rhapsody' on Wavve. As soon as I woke up, I texted a friend to see if they were down for naengmyeon (cold noodles) and soju for lunch, and we headed to Gongdeok Station for a late meal. Unlike most other successful Pyongyang naengmyeon spots in Seoul that sit on main roads, Eulmildae—which opened in 1971—is far from the station and tucked deep inside an alley. I thought it would be empty since it was a late lunch, but there were still three groups waiting ahead of us. It makes sense for a historic restaurant popular enough to be featured in a documentary.
Watching Baek Jong-won explain it in 'Naengmyeon Rhapsody', I learned about the concept of 'seonjuhumyeon' (drinks first, noodles later)—drinking heavily first and then eating naengmyeon as a hangover cure. This isn't a modern trend either; since the Joseon Dynasty, people would eat it as a late-night snack on their way home after drinking heavily at a gisaeng house. I couldn't pass up the chance to experience this traditional culture. So, before eating our noodles, we ordered some suyuk (boiled beef slices) and shared a bottle of soju.
Eating thinly sliced suyuk with sour scallion salad dipped in sauce, and drinking soju in broad daylight—the sense of freedom was absolutely amazing. It was just the two of us, but we used the ridiculous excuse that COVID restrictions would hit at 6 PM to justify our day drinking. As I'll mention later, if the suyuk is a bit too pricey, ordering nokdujeon (mung bean pancake) with soju until your throat burns a little is also a great choice.
Once we got a bit tipsy and our throats felt a little dry, it was time for the naengmyeon. We ordered two bowls of mul-naeng (cold noodle soup), and it took quite a while to come out. First, I taste the broth, swallow the boiled egg, and then slurp the noodles once. Next, I try it with the meat garnish resting on the egg strip, add a splash of vinegar, and slurp again. Then I add mustard, followed by chili powder, tasting it after each addition. Enjoying it all at once with your favorite flavor profile is fine, but experiencing multiple flavors in a single dish is my preferred way to eat.
If you look up Eulmildae, you'll find that when the founder passed it down to his children, lawsuits were filed and the restaurant split into Mapo and Gangnam locations. So, much like Hadongkwan (another famous soup spot), you have to view Eulmildae's main branch and Gangnam branch as completely different restaurants. There are also rumors floating around the internet claiming it has a strong chemical taste or that the flavor is inconsistent. Personally, I just notice the broth is a bit different; I wouldn't know how the meat broth is made or if MSG was added until much later, so those comments don't bother me at all.
I'm not sure if the naengmyeon is just that delicious or if it's because I was drinking, but the broth is unbelievably refreshing. The restaurant's signature slushy ice really cools your chest. Sweating on a hot day and adding alcohol to the mix, it felt like my entire body was absorbing the naengmyeon broth.
The nokdujeon feels a bit greasier than at other places if you eat it on its own. Because of that, it seems much better to pair it with soju, beer, or naengmyeon rather than eating it by itself.
Pyongyang naengmyeon itself is a very polarizing dish, and Eulmildae is one of the most polarizing spots of them all. Unlike Hamheung naengmyeon or makguksu (buckwheat noodles) which have distinct flavors, Pyongyang naengmyeon has a very subtle taste, so everyone's standard for what makes it good is completely different. Just like they said in 'Naengmyeon Rhapsody', it's a strange food that creates flavor out of tastelessness.
Still, if a friend visits Seoul and wants a dish you can really only taste in Seoul, I think it has to be Pyongyang naengmyeon. Among the options, Eulmildae—famous as a historic spot featured on TV—is a great place to introduce them to. It has a great old-school vibe, and it's easy to head over to Hongdae to hang out afterwards. However, the space is a bit cramped, and doing 'seonjuhumyeon' (drinks first) during the lunch rush will get you some serious stares, so I highly recommend visiting a bit later in the day.