Gangneung Chahyunhee Sundubu: Amazing Tofu, Weak Sides
Among all the restaurant recommendation sources I trust, Huh Young-man's comic Sikgaek (Le Grand Chef) ranks the highest. There are plenty of guidebooks and TV shows out there, but when it comes to Korean food, nothing beats Sikgaek in my book. One of the tofu restaurants featured in the comic happens to be right near the East Coast bicycle route. It's called "Chahyunhee Rural Sundubu" (Chahyunhee soft tofu).
As soon as we pulled in, we were greeted by a massive number of cars. I figured it made sense since it's a famous spot, but I was worried we'd have to wait an hour. We ended up waiting about 30 minutes, and I actually felt relieved when our turn came—that should tell you everything you need to know about the vibe here.
"Numbers 70, 71, and 72, please come in."
I stood to the side and watched the man in charge of the queue endlessly calling out numbers and letting people in. It really made me think the phrase "raking in the cash" was invented for places exactly like this.
If we're just talking about the tofu, I completely understand why this place was in Sikgaek. There's no raw soybean smell, just a wonderful nuttiness. The texture isn't too mushy; it has just the right bite. Seeing how many people were eating cheonggukjang (fermented soybean paste) without the restaurant smelling overwhelmingly pungent also made me look forward to trying it.
However, the seasoned dishes really didn't sit well with me. When I took my first bite of the sundubu jeongol (spicy tofu hot pot), I thought they had dumped ramen seasoning powder into it. I also tried a bite of the yangnyeom gejang (spicy marinated crab) and it was so spicy I had to chug two cups of water. My friend, who ordered the spicy food, apologized profusely from the first bite until we walked out the door. The seasoning... if only it weren't for the seasoning! ㅠㅠ It's a shame, because if they just changed the chef in charge of the side dishes and seasonings, this could be a truly phenomenal restaurant. That said, it's not a bad place overall, simply because the tofu itself is overwhelmingly good.
I'll say it again: the tofu is top-tier. If the other restaurants in the area make tofu this good, then the side dishes are what will make or break them. Next time I visit, I definitely need to try the soft tofu at a different spot.
Revisited Chahyunhee Sundubu Main Branch on August 25, 2021
Most places in the Gangneung Sundubu Village (soft tofu village) are closed on Wednesdays. This time around, I really wanted to visit a different restaurant to compare (especially to try the jjamppong sundubu, a spicy seafood tofu soup), but since nothing else was open, I had no choice but to come back here. Even though COVID-19 is spreading and it's pouring rain, there were quite a few people, probably because all the neighboring shops were closed.
Recalling my previous experience, I ordered the "White Sundubu (Soy Sauce)." I came alone today, and solo diners don't have many options. Most menu items require at least two people, so the white sundubu is the only available meal. But since that's exactly what I came for, I ordered it without any complaints. The price has also gone up by 10,000 KRW since I was here four years ago.
The side dishes came out a bit faster than last time. There were fewer people than before, but it was still practically a full house, yet the service speed had noticeably improved. I tried the side dishes one by one, and sure enough, the seasoning is incredibly strong. Still, they're okay when eaten with the soft tofu. Out of all the sides, the one that looks like bulgogi is the worst. My lack of excitement for the side dishes remains exactly the same as before.
Not long after the side dishes were served, the soft tofu arrived. The sides are close to a 0, but the soft tofu is near a 100. It's truly a baffling restaurant. Following the server's advice, I mixed in some soy sauce. They give you two types of soy sauce, and one looks more like doenjang (soybean paste) than soy sauce. I was a bit skeptical, but eating the tofu with this paste-like soy sauce meant I didn't need any other side dishes. The thinner soy sauce in the small dish pairs well with the biji (soybean dregs).
It's so soft that it made me wonder if I've always loved soft tofu this much. The nutty flavor isn't overpowering but subtly lingers, and when eaten with their special soy sauce, you don't even need rice. If you scoop up the soft tofu like rice and then take a bite of the perilla leaves or gim bugak (seaweed crisps), the salty and sweet flavors make you crave the tofu all over again. Even on a second visit, I still highly recommend it. But only for the soft tofu, of course.
