slothis · English

Hamru in Gongdeok: Hitsumabushi Rivaling Marushim

2023-05-22 · Updated: 2026-08-11 · Original (Korean)

This article was translated from the original Korean post with AI assistance. Read the original Korean post →

It's the Gongdeok era for me now. Since my office is in Gongdeok (a neighborhood in Seoul), I've started frequenting the restaurants around here. (Though it's actually been a while since I moved here.) The spots that really stand out are the Korean BBQ joints and the jeon (Korean pancake) places. The grilled fish sold at Gongdeok Market is also delicious and has a great old-school vibe. Alongside these long-standing traditional eateries, there are surprisingly many new places popping up. Gongdeok is truly a hidden gem of a neighborhood with a broad spectrum, like a team with a perfect balance of old and new. Among them, today I want to introduce Hamru, a hitsumabushi (Nagoya-style grilled eel over rice) restaurant that seems ready to threaten Marushim.

Exterior of Hamru restaurant lit up on a night street
Interior of Hamru restaurant with neatly arranged wooden tables and chairs

Hamru gives off a very newly-built vibe, and it isn't too crowded, likely due to its high prices. Rumor has it that the taste has changed, but honestly, I'm not sure about that. The way you eat it and the menu layout are no different from Marushim. If I had to give it some extra praise, the interior is cleaner and quieter.

Menu showing an explanation of hitsumabushi (grilled eel over rice) and how to enjoy it
Lunch menu listing hitsumabushi, Hanwoo (Korean beef) cube steak, and other items
Dinner menu listing hitsumabushi, unadon (eel bowl), grilled eel, and other items
Liquor menu listing the types and prices of various Japanese and Korean alcoholic beverages
Special menu consisting of delicacies, appetizers, and grilled dishes
Beverage menu listing cheongju (clear rice wine), beer, cocktails, and soft drinks

The food composition is also identical to Marushim. Maybe because it's eel, it goes down so easily after just a few chews. The eel was well-grilled and tender, and each side dish perfectly complemented the main course, leaving nothing to criticize about the food itself. I can't say it's better than Marushim, but I can't say it's worse, either. In terms of taste, it's a tie.

One unique point is that they put a tremendous amount of effort into their tableware. Perhaps because of this, the place feels a bit more luxurious. Feeling the artisan's touch on the bowls actually elevates my overall assessment of the food. I don't know if they are the work of a famous artist, but they even left a note stating that the bowls are definitely not ready-made, which made me feel like I was being treated to a grand feast. I never realized a single bowl could leave such a positive impression.

Steamed egg topped with maesaengi (seaweed) and a rolled wet towel placed on a wooden tray
Neatly set table with an eel rice bowl, soup, and various side dishes
Close-up of an eel rice bowl densely covered with glossy grilled eel over rice
Eel rice bowl with grilled eel neatly placed on top of rice in a wooden bowl
Empty ceramic rice bowl with a unique pattern and a paper card with tableware information
Portion of eel rice bowl transferred to a ceramic bowl, poured with broth, and topped with green onions

Although it's a latecomer chasing after Marushim, its points of differentiation are clear, making for an interesting rivalry. I hope this competition helps both restaurants evolve into spaces that offer even more delicious and enriching experiences.