slothis · English

Hiking Down Hallasan's Yeongsil Course in Jeju

2017-06-24 · Updated: 2026-08-11 · Original (Korean)

This article was translated from the original Korean post with AI assistance. Read the original Korean post →

We ate our ramen and gimbap (seaweed rice rolls), got plenty of rest, and started our descent. It took quite a bit longer than expected, so we decided to head back down the exact same way we came up. Since the climb was so exhausting, I thought going down would be a breeze, but a steep slope is equally brutal whether you're going up or down. With every step I took, I kept groaning "Oof" and "Ouch" on repeat, like my mouth had a loop station attached to it.

A crow sitting on a wooden post connected by a rope, looking at a snow-covered mountain ridge.
I swear this crow was saying, "You leaving?"
Clouds hanging over a steep rocky mountain ridge with patches of snow.
Watching the clouds roll over the mountain is truly spectacular.
A bare tree standing against a sky with sunlight shining through the clouds.
Intense sunlight pouring through a dense coniferous forest, illuminating the plants on the forest floor.
A massive mountain peak shrouded in thick fog and clouds, faintly visible beyond snow-covered bushes.

We barely made it down the mountain before sunset. It felt like a waste to head straight back to our accommodation, so we decided to grab a cup of coffee at a cafe my older sister had found. But, as usual, I took a wrong turn and we ended up in the middle of nowhere. While I was fighting with my phone trying to figure out where we were, everyone else just stepped outside because the view was nice. Traveling without any time pressure must definitely run in our genetics.

Sunlight reflecting on the ocean surface under a red sunset sky, with black rocks in the foreground.
For a place we ended up at by accident, it's a really great spot to watch the sunset.
The sun setting beyond the silhouette of a pine tree growing on a cliff, casting a long reflection on the sea.
Two light-colored dogs walking on a wooden deck path stretching toward the setting sun over the sea.
The silly neighborhood dogs.
Two dogs walking on a wooden deck path against the backdrop of the sea at sunset.
Two light-colored dogs looking up at a person from the grass.
They strolled around and acted cute to each and every one of us. Silly country dogs are adorable wherever you go. I just wish they wouldn't eat weird things off the ground and would be a bit more careful around the road.
People fishing on a coast made of black rocks, with trees on a hill.
I should have at least pinned it on the map. The village is really pretty.
A coastal landscape with black basalt rocks rising above the calm sea.
A coastal sunset landscape with the sun setting over the sea and light reflecting on the water.
A landscape with black rocks and the ocean surface sparkling with reflected sunlight.

I typed in the correct address again and we finally arrived at our destination, 'Jeju Cafe Seureureuk'. Even at a quick glance, you can tell the building must have cost a lot of money. The interior is clean, and the ocean view from inside the coffee shop is beautiful. It's an especially great place to quietly take in the sea at sunset. Unfortunately, though, there were a few things that subtly made me feel uncomfortable.

Two square two-story buildings with large windows and two people walking in front of them.
A modern two-story building with floor-to-ceiling windows and a parked white car visible behind large rocks.
A restricted access notice and a standing sign indicating a no-kids zone for children under 13 set up along the road.
If they widen the road, it seems like there will be two or three more restrictions added.
Two light-colored dogs lying down and resting indoors, seen through a glass window.
For a second, I thought these were the silly dogs from earlier.
A person ordering inside a cafe with large windows overlooking the sea, wooden tables, and leather chairs.
A layered dark chocolate cake on a floral plate and a warm coffee topped with foam.
A cup of warm coffee, a chocolate cake, and two cold drinks placed on a wooden table.
The prices are the same as famous coffee shops in Seoul. If you think of it as a seating fee, the cost of the drinks and cake makes sense.
A peaceful coastal landscape where seaside rocks and a walking trail are connected.
A landscape showing a coastal road and the sea beyond a glass window with sheet music drawn on it.
A light-colored dog walking on seaside rocks reflecting sunlight.
Oops, the photo order got messed up so the silly dog appeared here.
Musical notes and a treble clef drawn on a glass window against the backdrop of the sea.
It's missing a string, but it's a good idea.
Wooden chairs and a table placed on a lawn against the backdrop of the sea at sunset.
A landscape of the sun shining beyond black seaside rocks and silver grass at sunset.

After resting up, we stopped by Gangjeong Pogu Hoejip (a raw fish restaurant near the port) to get a plate of hirasu (yellowtail amberjack) to go. We stuffed ourselves at our accommodation and completely passed out. The three of us worried that we might have overdone it on our very first day, yet we still asked each other where we were going tomorrow. Traveling spontaneously without making detailed plans doesn't seem to be an acquired trait—it must be genetic too. We only talked about where to go tomorrow, and without a single word about what time we needed to leave or wake up, we just flopped down into bed.

"Well, we'll figure it out tomorrow."