Minami in Seoul: Michelin Bib Gourmand Soba
If you look in the dictionary, memil-guksu, momil (said to be a Hamgyeong dialect), and soba all mean the same thing: buckwheat noodles. But when you actually order them at a restaurant, they're a bit different. Memil-guksu feels like something you'd eat in Gangwon-do province, while momil feels like what you'd get at a typical franchise or local snack bar. Soba, on the other hand, feels like a meal you'd have in Japan. Ultimately, they're all cold buckwheat noodles served on a bamboo tray, but your expectations change depending on how it's written on the menu.
Today, I came to eat "soba." Since it's soba, the sign, menu, and interior are all Japanese-style—the kind of place where they might even greet you with a hearty "Irasshaimase~" in Japanese if they went all out. Among these types of restaurants, I visited Minami, a spot that consistently makes the Michelin list every year.
True to its fame, getting in is a bit strict. They don't take lunch reservations, and if you have a party of four, all four people must be present to get a table. If you arrive just past 12 PM, you're almost 100% guaranteed to wait. Still, seeing Baemin (delivery app) riders coming and going, it seems they do offer delivery. There is parking, but only enough for one or two cars. You might think it's inconvenient for customers in many ways, but it's a small restaurant with about eight tables, and with word of mouth being what it is, it can't be helped.
I had heard plenty of rumors about the wicked prices, but actually holding the menu makes you scared to order. A single bowl of soba costs the same as one serving of beef at a Korean BBQ joint. If you're someone who cares about cost-performance, you'll never understand it, and it's the kind of price that will have you grumbling from before you go until after you eat. (I actually saw someone doing exactly this nearby.)
To calm my shocked heart, I ordered a beer first. (I quit my job, so it's fine to write this, lol.) I ordered the Ten Seiro Soba, and my companion ordered the Uni Soba. The Uni Soba is their signature, but I don't like sea urchin that much, so I went with the Ten Seiro.
Just as rumored, the noodles are quite unique. They aren't the soft, Korean-style buckwheat noodles that seem to have a lot of wheat flour mixed in; instead, they feel a bit dry and coarse. They don't slide smoothly down your throat but rather give it a little scratch on the way down—a very distinct texture. For the Uni Soba, the tsuyu (dipping sauce) comes out like jelly, which is also texturally unique. When you pair it with the uni, it feels like mixing noodles into grated yam. It's salty from the sea urchin, making it absolutely delicious with a beer. It's clearly their signature menu for a reason. One thing to be careful about is that uni can spoil easily in the summer.
We came in knowing a bit about what to expect and enjoyed our meal, but aside from the chicken karaage, every dish here can be hit or miss. If you like unique textures, it's a flavor that's hard to find anywhere else. On the other hand, if you prioritize the taste on your tongue over texture, you won't understand why on earth you're paying beef prices for this. It's a restaurant you need to be careful with if you're hosting someone. (Considering the Michelin Guide is published with business hosting in mind, this part is a little puzzling.)
On a previous visit, I had the Tororo Seiro Soba (served with grated yam to mix in) and the Tuna Soba Maki. If you don't really like uni but want to experience that sticky texture, I recommend the Tororo Seiro Soba. You can experience a truly fascinating texture. Personally, I highly recommend trying the Tuna Soba Maki. You might wonder why you'd pay beef prices for half a roll of gimbap (seaweed rice roll), but this Tuna Soba Maki was the most delicious thing I ate here. It feels like eating gimbap, but instead of rice, there are incredibly unique noodles inside, making you reach for piece after piece.
Because of the high prices, I can't go often, but I do recommend trying the Uni Soba and Tuna Soba Maki at least once. Of course, you might spend all that money and find it still doesn't suit your taste.