slothis · English

Atsuta Jingu & Famous Hitsumabushi in Nagoya

2015-03-08 · Updated: 2026-08-11 · Original (Korean)

This article was translated from the original Korean post with AI assistance. Read the original Korean post →

After dropping off our luggage at the hotel and catching our breath, my body and mind felt so much lighter. Grabbing just my wallet and camera, we set off for Atsuta Jingu (Atsuta Shrine) to eat hitsumabushi (grilled eel over rice), the highlight of today. Hitsumabushi was the dish I wanted to try the most even before coming here, so I was excited from the moment we left just thinking about eating it.

Like true travelers, we decided to take the subway. Walking straight out of the hotel, we crossed three crosswalks, turned left at the fourth traffic light, and walked about 50 meters to find Exit 2 of Fushimi Station. The streets were well-maintained and it was close by, making it easy to find.

City street scene in Japan with a no bicycle parking sign.
That right there is Exit 2 of Fushimi Station.
Subway ticket machine screen displaying an English menu.
The only place we're taking the subway to today is Atsuta Jingu, but we decided to buy a 1-day pass just in case. First, I switched the language to English to make things easier,
Finger pressing the 1-day pass button on a subway ticket machine screen.
Clicked on "One-day subway pass,"
Ticket machine screen showing the 1-day subway pass price of 740 yen.
And it asked for 740 JPY.
Hand inserting a 1000 yen bill into the bill slot of a subway ticket machine.
I obediently inserted the money,
1-day pass ticket and change in coins dispensed from a subway ticket machine.
And the ticket and change popped out on the left. I'm glad it was easier than expected.
Nagoya subway route map with station names and fares.
Thankfully, Nagoya has fewer subway lines, but it was still just as confusing. A quick tip: it's much more useful to memorize the line colors rather than their names.
Subway platform sign indicating the Higashiyama Line towards Sakae and Fujigaoka, with people waiting.
First, we headed toward our destination, Tenma-cho.
Electronic display above the subway doors showing the route map and current location.
Made a mistake right off the bat! We were supposed to head up that way, but the train we got on just went straight past! I'm sure there was a sign explaining this somewhere, but since we couldn't read it, it couldn't be helped. We hurriedly got off, went back to Kanayama, and set off for Tenma-cho again.
Signboard showing a map of the area around the station and locations of restaurants and hospitals.
Arriving at Tenma-cho, we saw an ad for hitsumabushi. It hadn't been long since we ate, but seeing the ad made me hungry again.
Information board for the site of Hayashi Toyo's house written in Japanese and English.
Perhaps because Atsuta Jingu is nearby, the area was quiet and we could see historical sites like this. What would it feel like to have a historical site as your home?
Black standing sign showing the business hours of Atsuta Horaiken restaurant.
Arrived at Atsuta Horaiken, famous for hitsumabushi!! We originally planned to go to the main branch, but it's notorious for long lines, so we came to the Jingu branch to check out the shrine as well.
People waiting in line outside the restaurant building.
Even though it was well past lunchtime, there were still a lot of people in line.

Despite it being way past mealtime, there were so many people waiting. I never imagined people would be waiting outside on such a cold day. I went inside to put our names down, only to find the waiting room completely packed. To think all these people were standing outside because there was no room inside... At a glance, there were about 30 groups ahead of us.

We were hungry, but we put our names on the list and decided to look around Atsuta Jingu for a bit.

Parking lot sign and a torii (shrine gate) at the entrance of a dense forest.
Atsuta Jingu, located right in front of Atsuta Horaiken.

To be exact, Atsuta Horaiken is located in front of Atsuta Jingu. Anyone who has read the novel Taiko or has even the slightest interest in Japanese history will know Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi (everyone definitely knows him), and Tokugawa Ieyasu. All three of them visited this shrine, and Nobunaga in particular is famous for building a mud wall here after winning the Battle of Okehazama. (Winning that battle was an unbelievable feat, after all...) It's a very old place that frequently appears in history books. While Nagoya Castle burned down and had to be rebuilt, this shrine wasn't bombed and remains well-preserved. It's not a fake attraction that was recently built but claims to be ancient, like Nagoya Castle or Bulguksa Temple in Gyeongju.

Large wooden torii (shrine gate) standing among dense trees.
The entrance to Atsuta Jingu.

Even with all this historical importance, we weren't particularly interested in Japanese shrines. We were just hungry with nothing to do, so we figured we'd drop by for a quick stroll. However, the trees caught our eyes even more than the buildings, making it such a great place for a walk that we decided to go all the way to the end.

Guide map showing the locations of various shrines and facilities inside Atsuta Jingu (shrine).
Since food was the priority right now, we decided to only visit the auxiliary shrine near the entrance to make absolutely sure we wouldn't be late for our meal.
Large wooden torii (shrine gate) standing at the entrance of a wooded forest path.
Small vase and branch decoration hanging on a thick wooden pillar.
People walking in front of a traditional wooden building with a bronze-colored roof.

Since I don't speak any Japanese, I had no idea what this place was for. It was just a quiet spot, and seeing people praying so earnestly gave the shrine a very peaceful atmosphere. It's the kind of quiet place where even people of other religions can go and leave their stress behind.

Scenery of trees and traditional buildings around a wide gravel plaza.
Mr. Kim, our resident bonsai expert, completely absorbed in taking photos of the trees.
Shop inside the shrine displaying and selling amulets and souvenirs.
Wooden plaques with wishes written on them hanging densely on a wooden wall.
Entrance of a wooden building with a white cloth featuring purple patterns hanging over it.
Front of a wooden shrine building featuring a curved bronze roof.

It looked like there was a specific way to pray, and I thought about copying them, but I didn't know the steps or which god it was for, so I just took pictures instead. Looking at the photos now, I realize I didn't clean my lens...

Oh!! It's time!! Let's go eat!!


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