Buam-dong Tonkatsu 1979: Pork Cutlets in Seoul
There are two meccas for cyclists in Seoul: Namsan and Bugak (Bugaksan Mountain). Combined, they are often called "Nambuk" (South-North), a beloved route for everyone from beginners to absolute cycling fanatics. The road from Namsan to Bugak is a public road shared with cars and buses, making it a bit dangerous, but it's a fantastic course for a light uphill ride in Seoul.
Bugak is especially famous for the open, panoramic views of Inwangsan Mountain you get from the Palgakjeong (octagonal pavilion) at the top. Thanks to this great view, it draws not only cyclists but also motorcycle riders and couples on driving dates. In the summer, you might even see students on school trips from the countryside.
When you're drenched in sweat after a good ride and looking for a place to eat, the entrance to Bugak offers Gyeyeolsa (famous for fried chicken), Jaha Sonmandoo (handmade dumplings), and Buam-dong Tonkatsu, which was opened by the Gyeyeolsa folks a few years ago. I can't believe Gyeyeolsa became a franchise. Anyway, Gyeyeolsa is incredibly famous, so there's always a line. They open at 12 PM, and occasionally you might find it completely empty. If that happens, grabbing their clean, non-greasy fried chicken is a great choice. If you've been surviving on sandwiches and bread all week and really want a proper meal of rice and soup, you're better off having a hearty bowl of dumpling soup at Jaha Sonmandoo before heading home.
Putting it like this might make Buam-dong Tonkatsu sound like just "the place next door to the famous spot," but it's a place I'm grateful for. It expanded our options from "Bugak equals Gyeyeolsa" to "Hey, the pork cutlet place there is pretty good too." Personally, I think the meat here is softer and tastier than the famous Namsan Tonkatsu. The Gyeyeolsa team definitely knows what they're doing when it comes to frying.
I highly recommend taking beginners to Buam-dong Tonkatsu. Experienced riders might do several laps around Bugak, but for people who followed along excitedly without knowing what an uphill climb entails, Bugak is not an easy course. By the time they come down, they're usually half-dead and exhausted. This is where this spot shines: the prices are affordable and the portions are huge, making it the perfect food to replenish depleted glycogen so they can slowly pedal back home. If you eat before the ride, you might throw it all up, so I recommend pushing through to the top, having some Dippin' Dots ice cream, and then slowly coming down to eat.
I was watching the pork cutlet episode of the TV show 'Baek Jong-won's National Food', and they explained the history of wang tonkatsu (giant Korean-style pork cutlet). In that episode, Kyuhyun is shown eating a giant pork cutlet, and Baek Jong-won takes him to an old-school gyeongyang-sik (Korean-style Western food) restaurant. You can think of Buam-dong Tonkatsu as a combination of that giant pork cutlet and the old-school retro vibe. The interior is intentionally decorated with an antique touch, and the food itself evokes a sense of nostalgia.
The tonkatsu tastes absolutely fantastic. The breading and the meat don't separate, the pork isn't dry, and the crust isn't rock-hard. It's so delicious that it feels like you're being treated to a truly high-end pork cutlet. The crispy breading is great, but personally, I find the tender meat incredibly appealing. The sauce seems a bit saltier than other places, which makes you eat a lot of rice. Rice and side dishes are self-serve and unlimited, so you can eat to your heart's content.
You can park your bike in the restaurant's semi-basement space. I'm not sure if it's because so many cyclists visit, but they give out small complimentary cans of Coke or Sprite—a cyclist's favorite drinks. It's a small gesture, but to riders, it's a gift that tastes like honey. I don't know if the owner and staff planned it this way, but these little considerate touches are what make us visit after coming down from Bugak. The only downside is that after stopping by here, your body feels so heavy that riding back home is a struggle.