Donghae Winter Trip: Chotdaebawi Rock

2016-02-15 · Updated: 2026-08-11 · Original (Korean)

This article was translated from the original Korean post with AI assistance. Read the original Korean post →

I wanted to see the New Year's sunrise, but going out on the actual day felt like too much pressure, and I heard it would be incredibly crowded. So, I took a trip to Donghae (an eastern coastal city) on the 2nd instead. My goal was to catch the sunrise at Chotdaebawi (Candlestick Rock). However, I was exhausted from the journey the day before. After walking around above Cheongok Cave (I heard there was an admission fee, so I just stuck to the walking trail above the cave) and trekking about 5km to the port just to eat some sashimi, fatigue hit me hard by bedtime. I gave up on the sunrise pretty early on. The sunrise wasn't even that early—around 7:20 AM—but I still missed it. People say Chotdaebawi is worth seeing even without the sunrise, so today I decided to check out the rock, briefly browse the nearby market, and then head back to Seoul.

Exterior of a large hotel building with a large sign reading Hyunjin Tourist Hotel. — Hyunjin Tourist Hotel. Everywhere else is a motel; this is the only actual hotel.

Cute white puppy held in the hands of a person wearing white gloves. — A little guy that suddenly popped out on the way to Cheongok Cave yesterday. He wouldn't stay still for a second—this is the best photo I got.

Walking trail at night with small lights illuminated along the path. — The road to Mukho Port. They turned the sidewalk next to the road into a pretty walking trail. It's a nice path where a lot of locals take walks, but next time I go to Mukho Port, I think I'll just take a taxi.

Exterior of a restaurant with a large sign reading Mukho Mulhoe (cold raw fish soup) Main Branch. — The mulhoe (spicy raw fish soup) I had this morning. It's good enough to feature in a food blog post.

My trip from yesterday to this morning can be summarized in these four photos. True to its reputation as a charming place—some even say they prefer Donghae in the winter over the summer—it's quiet wherever you go, and despite being right by the coast, it barely smells like the sea. When I visited nearby Odaesan (Mount Odae), it was so packed with out-of-town hikers that I almost confused it for Seoul. Donghae, being tucked further away, isn't quite like that. But I know full well this is only possible because it's the off-season. Whether it's people or towns, they might just be easier to approach in the off-season rather than the peak season.

Chuam Chotdaebawi Rock

Two huge rocks rising above the blue sea with birds sitting on them.

Clear sea and several rocks in the water, viewed from a beach with pine trees. — When I first arrived at Chuam Beach where Chotdaebawi is located, I saw these two rocks and thought they were it.

View of the blue sea and Chotdaebawi (Candlestick Rock) rising sharply beyond the coastal rocks. — Chotdaebawi (Candlestick Rock)

Emerald clear sea and sharp rocks viewed from a wooden deck observatory. — This is the sunrise view. Even though we arrived when the sun was high in the sky...

View of rocky islands rising in the middle of the blue sea.

If I write it exactly as it's written on the sign:

The Legend of Chuam

Boasting a spectacular coastal landscape of bizarre rocks and strange stone formations, Chuam is widely known for the yearning love story of Chotdaebawi and as the background footage for the first verse of the national anthem. It was selected as one of the "10 Must-Visit Places in Korea" by the Korea Tourism Organization and is a famous filming location for the drama "Winter Sonata."

Famous poets throughout history loved to visit and sing praises of its breathtaking views. During the reign of King Sejo of the Joseon Dynasty, an envoy named Han Myeong-hoe was so intoxicated by the scenery that he compared it to the graceful gait of a beauty and called it "Neunghwadae." Its beauty is truly worthy of being called the Haegeumgang of the southern East Sea.

Long ago, a man lived here on the coast of Chuam. One day, he suddenly took in a concubine. From that day on, jealousy brewed between his primary wife and the concubine. The heavens eventually grew angry at the envy of these two women and cast down a lightning bolt as punishment, leaving only the man behind. It is said that the solitary Chotdaebawi standing today is the figure of that man.

Legend has it that until the 1900s, there were three rocks symbolizing the man, his wife, and the concubine, but two of them were broken and lost to lightning strikes. It serves as a reminder to men of monogamy, and to women of the importance of being a good wife and wise mother.

It's a shame they couldn't have written a better explanation. In particular, things like the first verse of the national anthem and the Top 10 Must-Visit Places can change at any time, so it probably would have been better to leave them out. On top of that, it's packed with unnecessary Chinese characters—it reads exactly like an explanation written by a stuffy, throat-clearing old man. This was one of the most beautiful landscapes I've ever seen in Korea... I just wish there was an explanation worthy of such a tourist attraction.

Candlestick-shaped rock towering on the coast against the clear blue sea. — My eyes are drawn to the clear water rather than the rocks. It's my first time realizing that we have places in Korea boasting such transparent seas.

People viewing the sea and Chotdaebawi (Candlestick Rock) from a wooden deck observatory.

Stone monument of Donghae City indicating that Chuam Beach is due east of Namhansanseong (fortress). — Even though we came after the sun was fully up, this is indeed the home of the sunrise.

Emerald clear seawater and a rocky island rising above it.

Surface of the emerald sea where underwater rocks can be seen clearly.

Upper part of Chotdaebawi (Candlestick Rock) rising sharply against the blue sea and sky.

Outside of Jeju Island, I don't think I've ever been to a place with such clear water and bizarrely shaped rocks where I could just space out and stare for a long time. (Ah, I think I felt something similar in Goseong before.) If I ever get to see the spectacular sight of the sun rising in a place like this, I feel like I could make some serious new resolutions for my life.