Gomtangban in Gongdeok: The Standard of Beef Soup
One of the most memorable things singer Sung Si-kyung said on his YouTube show was, "Korea doesn't need drugs. A bowl of gukbap (hot soup with rice) and a shot of soju is a drug." There are many kinds of gukbap, like seolleongtang (ox bone soup) and sundaeguk (blood sausage soup), but my personal favorite is gomtang (beef bone soup). I have a bit of a childish palate, so I can't eat innards; I just love gomtang boiled down with pure lean meat.
When it came to gomtang, the only place I knew was Hadongkwan. But there's a restaurant near my office with a slightly cheesy sign boasting "Premium Hanwoo (Korean beef) Gomtang," so I decided to go and see just how premium it really is.
I ordered the regular Hanwoo gomtang, and my friend ordered the "special" gomtang. Going for the special—this guy knows how to eat. He didn't get that belly for nothing.
Gomtang is made with beef brisket and shank. Ultimately, it all comes down to how good this meat is, and I can safely say the meat passes the test. At first, the broth literally tastes like nothing. But once you season it with salt, that classic gomtang flavor finally comes alive. You dip the meat in soy sauce, and I couldn't stop my chopsticks from reaching for that sweet soy sauce mixed with chili peppers. On top of that, the kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi) paired so perfectly with the soup that we refilled it three times.
It was a work lunch, so it's a shame we couldn't drink soju. This dish absolutely calls for it. I don't know what it is about this food that makes you unable to put your spoon and chopsticks down. I haven't touched a drop of alcohol in weeks, yet I felt like I was curing a hangover. A meal that makes you crave soju while simultaneously curing a hangover—what a combo.
I used to think Hadongkwan was the only real gomtang out there, but there was a hidden gem right here in Gongdeok (a neighborhood in Seoul). It doesn't seem too widely known yet, but eating here felt like I was dining at one of the top three gomtang spots in Seoul. The mild, clean flavor is really charming, making it a great choice for health-conscious folks too. I highly recommend this hearty bowl of soup that people of all ages will love.
We also ordered a side of suyuk (boiled beef slices). Getting a regular bowl of soup and sharing some suyuk is a great way to go. It's a bit too much food if you're eating alone, but it's a fantastic combo if you have a group of three or so.
