Jinmi Pyeongyang Naengmyeon: Michelin Bib Gourmand in Seoul
To wrap up 2018 on a high note, I wanted to eat something pretty nice for dinner, but surprisingly, nowhere was open today. After wandering around Gangnam for 30 minutes, the older brother I was having dinner with suddenly muttered, "I know a place," like he was possessed by a shaman, and brought us to Jinmi Pyeongyang Naengmyeon.
I had never eaten there before, but I'd heard the name since it's so famous among Pyeongyang naengmyeon (cold noodle) enthusiasts. I knew it was well-known, but still, I couldn't understand why we were getting cold noodles on a freezing day like today. But that slight disappointment quickly turned into curiosity and anticipation when he ordered a dish I had never heard of in my life: eobok jaengban (North Korean beef platter).


After a little while, something massive arrived. It was half meat and half vegetables, and it looked so visually stunning that my mouth watered the moment I saw it. The pre-meal presentation is so impressive that you could easily polish off half a bottle of soju just from the smell and the table setting. The server, speaking with a Korean-Chinese accent (though they might actually be from the North), told us the food was already somewhat cooked and to eat it after letting it simmer just a bit more. Since it's a North Korean restaurant, the server's accent actually boosted my trust in the food.
Once the food was roughly cooked, I took a bite and immediately thought, "Ah! This is the ultimate soju appetizer." I don't know if the restaurant was opened by someone from the North, but I looked it up and it's run by a former chef from Pyeongyang Myeonok, so they definitely know the key points of North Korean cuisine. My family is also originally from the North, so I've sometimes had dumplings or soup that tasted almost bland because they were so lightly seasoned, and this tasted exactly like that. However, according to what I've heard (though I'm not sure if it's reliable), that blandness actually comes from dumping a ton of salt into it. Maybe that's why the soju goes down so smoothly after eating it. It really was the perfect place to spend the last day of 2018.




It's hard for beef to taste bad, but I really enjoyed this. I heard that eobok jaengban is a dish from the Pyeongan Province region of North Korea, meaning any place that sells Pyeongyang naengmyeon will usually sell it too. But since the style varies slightly from restaurant to restaurant, figuring out those differences is part of the fun. The eobok jaengban we had today at Jinmi Pyeongyang Naengmyeon had fewer noodles and a lot of vegetables, which made for a great texture when eaten with the meat. The platter looked shallow at first, which was a bit disappointing, but as we ate, we realized it actually held a surprisingly large amount of food.
I'm not sure when I'll be back, but it seems like a great place to visit whenever you want to boost your energy, whether you're celebrating something good or dealing with something bad.




Revisiting Jinmi Pyeongyang Naengmyeon in July 2019



