Okmanine in Hallim: Spicy Seafood Short Rib Stew in Jeju
I excitedly rushed over to Hallim (in western Jeju) to grab some soju with friends visiting from Cheongju. We had a few different foods on our list, but since it was Sunday, most places were closed and we didn't have many options. One of my friends asked around and found Okmanine, a seafood stew restaurant that had good reviews locally.
When you live in Jeju, it's hard to find a good place to satisfy a craving for spicy food. Okmanine is known to be on the spicier side among Jeju restaurants. After eating mostly raw fish and doenjang (soybean paste), I really missed spicy food, and just thinking about it made my mouth water.
As soon as we walked in, we ordered a large spicy seafood and short rib stew (haemul galbijjim) and headed over to the self-service egg station in the corner to happily fry up some eggs. It felt a bit like being back in Seoul, as it reminded me of Iljeomsa in Gyodae.
After pouring a round of soju and polishing off the eggs, our seafood stew came out. I was really worried because of the spicy smell wafting over as it arrived, and sure enough, it was an intense level of heat that was tough for someone like me who can't handle spice well. I coughed and reached for water after just one bite, realizing dinner wasn't going to be easy tonight. I usually prefer a smooth, deliciously spicy flavor, but the heat here tasted a bit artificial. Still, it wasn't that terrible, annoying kind of spicy, and after a few bites, I got used to it and was able to enjoy it.
After neutralizing the heat with some soju, it was time to fry up some rice. Personally, I like the fried rice at the end even more than the seafood stew itself. The spice mellowed out and combined with the sweetness of the white rice, so we emptied the pan in no time.
It might not be the delicious spicy flavor you'd find in Seoul, but it does fill the void of spicy food in Jeju. However, I don't think it's something you need to go out of your way to eat.