Yeokjeon Hoekwan: Michelin Bulgogi in Seoul
I was trying to decide where to go for a meetup with a friend in Gongdeok (a neighborhood in Seoul). Walking around Gongdeok, it really feels like there are a lot of great places to eat. It has a huge variety of restaurants, with trendy new spots mixing right in with traditional, long-standing eateries.
Personally, I think Gongdeok could become the next big hotspot after Seongsu if it just had a few more clothing boutiques or lifestyle shops like Apgujeong or Hongdae. Anyway, today I was craving a proper meat dish, so we headed to Yeokjeon Hoekwan (Mapo Main Store), a restaurant recognized by the Michelin Guide.
We walked down the alley and arrived at the Yeokjeon Hoekwan building. The exterior is neat and tidy, yet you can still sense the depth of a historic restaurant. Right next to the entrance, a huge promotional sign catches the eye: "Selected for Michelin Guide Seoul Bib Gourmand 10 Consecutive Years."
Looking below the sign, there's also a phrase saying it was selected as one of the top 100 restaurants nationwide. They started in 1962 and are now a fourth-generation Korean restaurant, so their history runs quite deep. Seeing the endless stream of office workers heading inside, it definitely seems like a true local favorite.
As soon as we stepped inside, a row of Michelin Guide plaques displayed near the entrance by the register immediately grabbed my attention. Seeing the red plaques lined up by year from 2022 to the most recent 2026, it seems they've consistently maintained their quality.
On the partition above them, framed old newspaper clippings and black-and-white photos of the past owners showcased the restaurant's history. I was honestly a little worried whether my palate would be sophisticated enough to fully appreciate the deep flavors of such a historic Michelin-awarded spot.
The wall along the stairs leading up to the dining area was completely covered with framed celebrity autographs, leaving no empty space. Seeing the traces of so many celebrities and public figures who have visited this famous old restaurant made me realize just how incredibly popular it is.
My friend works nearby and comes here often, and they looked really excited for the food. The small lighting fixtures and interior props near the restroom added to the traditional vibe, making me think this would be a great place to bring older relatives for a meal.
We took our seats and ordered the Bulgogi set meal. Before long, the main dish—Bassak Bulgogi (crispy, brothless bulgogi)—was served on a wide plate. Wow, the moment it hit the table, a savory charcoal aroma pierced my nose.
Usually, when you think of Seoul-style bulgogi, you picture a clay pot or a shallow pan with meat simmering in a bubbling broth. But the bulgogi here is different. True to its name, the meat is grilled crispy without a single drop of broth, giving it a very unique appearance.
I took a bite with some green onions, and the seasoning on the meat was wonderfully sweet. Even though the meat is grilled crispy over an open fire, it surprisingly goes down softly when you chew it. The beef at Bukakjeong I visited before was also tender and really good, but the Bassak Bulgogi here had an equally excellent texture that was incredibly satisfying.
Since the meat is a savory, brothless style, the side dishes you eat with it play a crucial role. Because we ordered the set menu, a very neat and diverse array of side dishes was laid out on the table. Salad, shredded radish kimchi, braised black beans, seasoned greens, lettuce wraps, and a refreshing bean sprout soup—the table was packed with perfect accompaniments for rice. The ones I enjoyed the most were the kimchi varieties, like the regular cabbage kimchi and the white kimchi. The refreshing kimchi perfectly balanced the savory, well-seasoned meat, making me reach for the side dishes just as much as the main course. As expected, a truly great restaurant has side dishes that are just as delicious as the main event.
After finishing the meal, I felt the taste was undeniably excellent, though the price of the Bassak Bulgogi did feel a bit expensive. Still, considering the neat assortment of side dishes and the unique flavor of the meat, it's a place I definitely want to visit again.